Showing posts with label COVID19. Show all posts
Showing posts with label COVID19. Show all posts

Saturday, 16 May 2020

Final Word: My, How the World Has Changed - also, An Antarctica Retrospective

Three and a half months ago, hubs and I were in Argentina, at fin del mundo, getting ready to board a boat with just under 200 other passengers that would take us to Antarctica. We'd started to hear stories of a coronavirus that had been reported in China, that had only begun its reach to other places. On our flights, we observed some travelers wearing masks, and additional measures by cabin crew to disinfect planes. But there was no panic, no significant worry just yet. 

The world was a different place three and a half months ago.

In the wake of COVID-19, we - as well as everyone else - have watched as countries across the globe started closing their borders, restricting travel and instituting lockdowns. People hoarded toilet paper and groceries while getting ready to hunker down in their homes. Public health officials and medical health officers started appearing on the news every day. And all the while, the numbers of sick and dying continued to grow.

After finishing recounting our tales from the 7th continent on March 8, I'd every intention of coming back to this blog to write a round up, one last post tying it all together: what we'd learned from our time in Antarctica, how being there changed us. But it's difficult to think about this wondrous place, and so many other incredible travel destinations around the world, that now seem impossible to visit and entirely out of reach.

...but as Lauryn Hill would say: "Don't forget what you've got, looking back, looking back, looking back"
While hubs and I had previously traveled to many other places, with nowhere else but Antarctica did I feel so much connection to the land, nature and wildlife.

There were often times on our journey where I was so much in awe of the things we were seeing, it felt like we were on a different planet. Or rather, that this incredible setting with these amazing creatures was actually the real world versus the one at home. I started to feel like the so-called "real world" was something that had been manufactured - a fake reality created by humans simply to keep us occupied on a day to day basis, filling our time with trivial and unnecessary tasks. This "real world" enabled humans to forget about those things that are actually important - the health and existence of the Earth, and regard for all animals, including the non-human animals with whom we share this planet.

Hubs had read about an experience similarly described by astronauts seeing Earth from outer space, called the "overview effect." This is well described by writer Ivan DeLuce in Business America:
When astronauts saw Earth from afar for the first time, they described a cognitive shift in awareness. This state of mental clarity, called the "overview effect," occurs when...you become totally overwhelmed and awed by the fragility and unity of life on our blue globe. It's the uncanny sense of understanding the "big picture," and of feeling connected to and yet bigger than the intricate processes bubbling on Earth.
In many ways today, it feels like we as a society have learned this lesson of connectedness and fragility the hard way.

"This is Major Tom to Ground Control - I'm stepping through the door and I'm floating in a most peculiar way"
Yesterday, Air Canada announced layoffs of 20,000 of its workers; at the end of March, WestJet was forced to let go of nearly half its staff (and job losses have continued). While many expect the federal government to bail out these Canadian airlines, with national and provincial debt soaring, and a return to "normal" for domestic and international travel still entirely uncertain, it is not hard to imagine the possibility of these airlines going under completely.

What is hard to imagine, is what travel will look like in the next few years. When will travel restrictions be lifted? Will the pre-COVID-19 volume of international flights resume? Will airlines be forced to fly fewer routes, take on less passengers, ensure social distancing? For how long? But also, will passengers be comfortable getting back on planes?

"Is it getting better? Or do you feel the same?"
You may recall I caught a nasty head cold towards the end of the trip. On the final leg of the journey, on a flight from Toronto to Vancouver, I was suffering from a buildup of sinus pressure and a terrible headache. To try and alleviate this, I was blowing my nose continuously and trying to cough. In response, I received more than a few death stares from those sitting in front of and next to me, like I was besieged with plague - how dare I have been allowed on the plane!

I maybe should have guessed that that was the beginning of the end of travel as we knew it. But how could we possibly know it would change so drastically as it has? When all governments at all levels start (largely) to agree with one another, it sure feels to me like the end has come. (Don't worry - that's only how I feel on the bad days since this global pandemic started.)

For now, I - like all of you - will continue to wait, listening to the advice of our medical health officers and trying to follow the directives as best I can.

And I will dream of Antarctica, my spiritual home and one I hope to return to some day when we are all allowed and feel safe to travel again.

Sunday, 1 March 2020

February 4: The Final Day of Excursions and Saying Goodbye to Antarctica

Thanks for coming to
see me, even though you
weren't feeling well!
Written on March 1

It's Not Coronavirus, But Still
And then I got sick. Boourns!

I had been fighting a sore throat for a couple of days before taking the Polar Plunge; the sore throat escalated after I'd jumped into the cold waters of the Southern Ocean, and I woke up on February 4 with a terrible head cold. Given the coronavirus fears, I checked in with the ship's doctor who gave me throat lozenges, asked me to report in again if things got worse, and sent me on my way.

This was the last day of excursions on our voyage, but with me feeling so poorly, I just didn't have the energy to keep up the same pace as previous excursion days. Hubs, at this point, was also feeling a little "zodiac-ed out" so we had a bit of a modified/easier day of outings.

Morning Excursion: Cuverville Island
Cuverville Island is a small rocky island in the Errera Channel and home to the largest gentoo penguin colony in the region. Even though I wasn't feeling well, I was definitely not about to give up this last chance to see more penguins on our trip. After a chat with the Expedition Leader, we were able to skip the zodiac cruising portion of this excursion, and opt only for the shore landing.

As this was our final excursion, we did our best to just be in the moment after landing on the island - sitting down, listening to all of the penguin sounds, watching adult penguins be with their chicks, and seeing the penguins splashing around and porpoising in the shallow water along the beach.

Beach at Cuverville Island

Parenting, am I right?

Gentoo penguin and whale bones

Heading back to shore

Parent-teacher meeting?

Just hangin'

Practicing for National Geographic © Matthew Boulton

Afternoon Excursion: Paradise Harbour 
The original plan for the afternoon was to head onshore midway along the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula at Paradise Harbour, to visit Argentine Base Brown. Formerly known as Almirante Brown, this place has a bit of an incendiary history. From our voyage journal provided by Quark Expeditions:
"Almirante Brown was the base conducting Argentina’s Antarctic marine biology and hydrography research. In 1984, the base doctor, who did not want to overwinter a second time, burned down the main base building. The concrete foundations still exist behind the remaining buildings. 
The base was reopened in the 1990s but plans to rebuild it were dropped during Argentina’s 2001 economic crisis. Currently, the former boatshed is used as summer accommodation for the scientific staff and the cleanup team. The current scientific program is continuing the hydrographic work of the 1990s, and studying the effects of these physical factors on biological systems in the harbour." 
(Aside: one of the historians on our ship, who also happens to be Argentinian, joked that if someone from Argentina says they're going to burn something down, you should take them seriously.)

Argentine Base Brown, taken from Ocean Endeavour
© Matthew Boulton
However, given the nice weather on this day, the staff at Base Brown decided to do some maintenance and re-painting of the buildings, which meant no shore landing for us. The plan was revised for everyone to instead take in an extended cruise around Paradise Harbour and nearby Skontorp Cove.

As beautiful as this spot was in the brilliant sunshine, and even though it was the very last excursion of our voyage, hubs and I opted to skip the zodiac cruise and enjoy the amazing views from the ship instead. While part of me is a little disappointed that we missed this outing, it was quite nice to have the ship nearly to ourselves. Plus, given my nasty cold, I think staying onboard was the more sensible choice versus being on the water in the zodiac for more than an hour.

Farewell Antarctica!
Everyone came back to the ship in the late afternoon, and our Expedition Leader led everyone in a farewell toast to Antarctica - a touching albeit bittersweet way to say goodbye to the 7th continent before heading northbound on the Drake Passage and back to South America the next day.

Final note on this day: we heard that a few members of the expedition team hosted an epic Antarctica-themed quiz night that evening, but we went to bed early.

Our Expedition Leader Laurie leading the farewell toast

Cheers to you, Antarctica!
© Matthew Boulton

Paradise Harbour: a stunning way to end our time in this amazing place

Monday, 27 January 2020

First Leg: Done

Hello from beautiful Buenos Aires!

It was a little surreal walking around last night - kind of like, "Holy shit. Are we really in South America?" Really though, I blame our dreamlike state on massive jet lag.

The journey so far:

  • Vancouver to Toronto = 4.5 hours
  • Toronto to Santiago = 9.5 hours
  • Santiago to Buenos Aires = 2 hours

Therefore, to get here it only took 16 hours in the air plus all of the time spent in airports! Ain't no thang (yeah right).

Thankfully, we wandered around a little last night and found somewhere to have a big meal, which, combined with our overall lack of sleep, contributed to us sleeping 10 hours straight last night. Bueno.

Side note: Upon landing in Argentina, the flight crew was required to spray some kind of disinfectant on the plane, which kind of stunk. Too bad we didn't have any face masks on us.

In Other News
Woke up to the news that Kobe Bryant and his daughter were killed in a helicopter crash last night. Sad for the basketball community to lose a GOAT. #RIPMamba

Also, there is now one confirmed case of Novel Coronavirus (2019-nCoV) in Ontario. Scary stuff.

Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires

Saturday, 25 January 2020

First Leg!

Hello from YVR International Airport!

Legs
I don't know if it's a result of years of running long distance, but I've been thinking about this trip in legs. For example:

  • Vancouver to Toronto to Santiago to Buenos Aires - first leg. 
  • Buenos Aires to Ushuaia - second leg.
  • The boat - third leg.

Then everything in reverse, but lumped together because that's "on the way home" which is inherently less exciting.

Treat Yo'self
We chose to treat ourselves and stayed at the Fairmont YVR last night, just to avoid having to get up really early for the mad dash to the airport. And what a joy that decision was. We managed to avoid the deluge that took place yesterday morning/early afternoon and again this morning, and even had the opportunity to sleep in (which for us normally means 7 AM anyway, but we would've had to get up earlier if we hadn't stayed in the airport last night).

Coronavirus Observations
Seeing a lot of people in masks around Vancouver - on the train to the airport last night - and also in the airport today. Hate to break it to these folks, but the masks are going to do nothing (probably). First of all, not enough is known about the transmission of the Coronavirus to be clear on how it is spread. Second, only N95 masks (like the ones worn in surgical environments) protect a wearer from breathing in potentially hazardous materials - but even then, this is usually small particles found in the air and not necessarily germs.

Again, did I mention not enough is known about how the Coronavirus is transmitted??

Perhaps I'm being too harsh, though. If wearing a mask that is technically useless makes these people feel more comfortable, then fine. So what if I think it's pointless and asinine and flies in the face of current science and knowledge. Whatever.

Not to say that I'm not worried about the virus. Of course I am. Just - I'm not going to start wearing a mask simply because I feel the need for a senseless security blanket.

No masks in these bags.
© Matthew Boulton